01/12/24
Our merchant role: building bridges — 3-Michelin-star chef visits Colombian coffee producer
Earlier this month in the Southern Andes of Colombia, with ‘1895 Coffee Designers’ (the specialty branch of Lavazza), we experienced a unique moment between two visionary minds, Diego and Yannick. Diego is a coffee grower from Cauca, passionate about fermentation, roasting and innovative ways to produce coffee; Yannick is a French chef who has dedicated his life to mastering French cuisine and fermentation, using it as a tool to reveal unique flavors and terroirs. Both have stars above their head, guiding them, distinguishing them. Here’s a glimpse into their journey.
Yannick Alléno, recognized as one of the leading figures in the modern gastronomic world, foresees a future where innovation complements traditional savoir-faire. This vision requires a deep understanding of the science behind each product. Such a vision resonates at Finca El Paraiso, Colombia where Diego Bermudez and his team are pioneering innovative techniques to reveal the essence of intrinsic coffee flavors. A center of excellence– surrounded by nature and filled with an iodic Pacific breeze coming from the far horizon– is where you will find both microbiology and cupping laboratories, paired with a fully equipped processing facility where coffee cherries are transformed into this coveted “oro verde” we are all looking after. It’s a unique place with two unique minds; you can imagine how blessed we are to be part of this adventure– producer, roaster, chef, and us, the merchant, all together.
We learned about cryoconcentration (a non-thermal process of concentration that preserves all the minerality, vitamins and taste of a product, “resulting in the purity of flavor”, as per Alléno’s words), agronomy and ecosystems, and meticulous craftsmanship. We have redefined the terms “co-products” instead of “sub-products” around the coffee beans; the dried pulp, when well-prepared through cryoconcentration, has given the chef new ideas for his sauces and preparations, a true representation of our Colombian terroir. Nature gives us all we need and thanks to the hard work and experimentation at El Paraiso, its best is revealed. Our guests were left amazed by the precision of the techniques used at the farm.
One pillar of our job as merchants is to create value with people and to build bridges between communities. I often describe my job to my family and friends, as a job of “botas and corbatas”– wearing boots and ties– illustrating our role of connecting two worlds that don’t always meet. And when they meet, magic occurs. We believe in the power of connection, not just between coffee farmers and consumers, but also between the worlds of fine cuisine and exceptional coffee. After all, your day starts with a cup of coffee, your dinner ends with a cup of coffee– it’s better to have a great one!
For Alléno, the visit was more than just a tour; it was an exploration of coffee’s culinary potential. The rich, red plum and fruity notes of El Paraíso’s coffee inspired him to experiment with coffee pairings and dishes. For Diego, sharing his work and vision and being aligned with his guests has further fueled his confidence to keep developing disruptive ideas. For all of us, we have experienced excellence.
Finally, such a collaboration was made possible thanks to one of our most cherished customers, Lavazza. Together with their team, the “Yannick Alléno Signature blend” was created, including coffee from Diego in Colombia, as well as Guatemala and Brazil. Cristiano, Lavazza’s coffee designer, who made this journey a reality, truly understood how to highlight the best of each lot and delivered exactly what Alléno was looking for: A true reflection of understanding and meeting our customers’ needs.
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